Jongmyo Royal Ancestral Shrine is a short walk from Jongno 3-ga subway station (Lines 1, 3 & 5). To get there leave the station by exit 11 (exit 8 if you arrived on line 3 or 5, which I didn’t) and walk straight ahead for a few minutes until you see a little park on your left. I don’t know what it’s like at the weekend but on a week day an unbelievable number of elderly men hang out there.
Walk straight through the park towards the statue of the patriot in traditional Korean costume. At that point the entrance to Jongmyo shrine is within sight. A 1000 won ticket lets you into one of the best tourist attractions in Seoul.
To this day Koreans honour their ancestors by offering food and burning incense. Ceremonies are held on special dates like the anniversary of the ancestor’s death, Chuseok (autumn festival) and the Lunar New Year. According to the leaflet I picked up at the shrine:
“Jongmyo is the royal ancestral shrine of the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910) where the spirit tablets of its kings and queens are enshrined and memorial rites are observed in respect of time-old confucian tradition.”
The doors on the main shrine buildings were closed to protect the tablets. I assume it is always like that, but there’s plenty to see outside. I liked the stone road running through the complex and the spacious courtyards paved with stone and slate. For me the best thing about the Jongmyo shrine was the heavily wooded grounds which currently look lovely with the spring growth. It was hard to understand why all the old men were hanging around outside in the park.
I knew that there was a way to get from the shrine to Changgyeonggung palace just behind. I was anxious not to miss the entrance so I took a circular route around the grounds. Eventually I found a wide path going up a leafy hill. It took me to a footbridge over a busy road and straight into the palace gardens. The palace and shrine were both covered by the same 1000 Won ticket.
The palace grounds are beautiful and even better than the shrine. I felt as if I was in a garden to equal anything you might find around a stately home in England. I particularly enjoyed the twisted old trees and the trees on an island in the centre of a pond.
When you’re in amongst the buildings you’ll notice a steep flight of stone steps leading up to a terrace. As in many historic sites in Korea the steps require big strides and there are no rails to hang onto. (I’ve noticed that Koreans have stronger leg muscles than Westerners as a result of not using chairs as much as we do. It’s possible they don’t find these kinds of steps at all daunting.) I almost didn’t go up them but I was afraid of what I might miss. I later found that it was possible to get up there by following a gentle path.
I was glad that I braved the steps because the view from the terrace was fantastic. It was just the right position to appreciate the balance of palace buildings and strategically planted trees. It was simple and harmonious. I didn’t have a camera with me. Make sure you don’t forget yours!
Another must see at the palace is the antique wrought iron glasshouse with its bonsai trees and an artificial water course circulating around the middle. Nearby there’s a “plant study room,” a garden planted with Korean species so that city children can learn about ecology.
I didn’t measure how long it took me to see both sites but it might have been a couple of hours. If I’d had company with me I’m sure I could’ve made the visit last all afternoon.
I made the mistake of exiting from the palace and then having to walk along busy roads to get back to Jongno-3 ga. It would have been better to cut back through the shrine.
If you have serious mobility problems a wheelchair might be the best way to enjoy the shrine and palace grounds properly. There were a lot of toilets but no cafes.
I intend to go back soon with a camera. 
Both sites are closed on Tuesdays.
Recent Comments